China, the Homeland of Tea
Of the three major beverages of the
world-- tea, coffee and cocoa-- tea is consumed by the largest
number of people.
China is
the homeland of tea. It is believed that China has tea-shrubs as
early as five to six thousand years ago, and human cultivation of
teaplants dates back two thousand years. Tea from China, along
with her silk and porcelain, began to be known the world over more
than a thousand years ago and has since always been an important
Chinese export. At present more than forty countries in the world
grow tea with Asian countries producing 90% of the world's total
output. All tea trees in other countries have their origin
directly or indirectly in China. The word for tea leaves or tea as
a drink in many countries are derivatives from the Chinese
character "cha." The Russians call it "cha'i",
which sounds like "chaye" (tea leaves) as it is
pronounced in northern China, and the English word "tea"
sounds similar to the pronunciation of its counterpart in Xiamen
(Amoy). The Japanese character for tea is written exactly the same
as it is in Chinese, though pronounced with a slight difference.
The habit of tea drinking spread to Japan in the 6th century, but
it was not introduced to Europe and America till the 17th and 18th
centuries. Now the number of tea drinkers in the world is legion
and is still on the increase.
According to
Lu Yu, the writer of the book Tea Classics in the Tang Dynasty,
Chinese tea enjoyed a more than 4000 years history.
Tea was used as
offerings in the Western Zhou, vegetables in the Spring and Autumn
period, and medicine in the Warring period. Later in the Western
Han Dynasty, it became a main commodity. During 300 years between
the Three Kingdoms period and the Northern and Southern Dynasties,
especially the latter, Buddhism was popular and Buddhists applied
tea to relieve sleep in za-zen, so tea trees spread along valleys
around temples. That is why people say tea and Buddhism
accompanied each other in their development. Till the Tang dynasty
tea became popular in ordinary people. In the Ming dynasty, tea
trade began to play an important role in the government economy,
the "Tea and Horse Bureau" was set up to supervise the
tea trade.
In the 6th century, a
Buddhist monk introduced tea to Japan and in the 16th century to
Europe by a Portuguese missionary. And tea became an international
drink.
Just as coffee in the
West, tea became a part of daily life in China. You can see
teahouses scattered on streets like cafes in the west. It has such
a close relationship with Chinese that in recent years, a new
branch of culture related to tea is rising up in China, which has
a pleasant name of "Tea Culture". It includes the
articles, poems, pictures about tea, the art of making and
drinking tea, and some customs about tea.
In the Song dynasty, Lu
You, who is known as "Tea Sage" wrote Tea Scripture, and
detailedly described the process of planting, harvesting,
preparing, and making tea. Other famous poets such as Li Bai, Du
Fu and Bai Juyi once created large number of poems about tea. Tang
Bohu and Wen Zhengming even drew many pictures about tea.
Chinese are very
critical about tea. People have high requirements about tea
quality, water and tea wares. Normally, the finest tea is grown at
altitudes of 3,000 to 7,000 feet (910 to 2,124m). People often use
spring water, rain and snow water to make tea, among them the
spring water and the rainwater in autumn are considered to be the
best, besides rainwater in rain seasons is also perfect. Usually,
Chinese will emphasis on water quality and water taste. Fine water
must feature pure, sweet, cool, clean and flowing.
Chinese prefer pottery
wares to others. The purple clay wares made from the Yixing,
Jiangsu province and Jingdezhen, Jiangxi province are the best
choice.
In China, there are
customs about tea. A host will inject tea into teacup only seven
tenth, and it is said the other three tenth will be filled with
friendship and affection. Moreover, the teacup should be empty in
three gulps. Tea plays an important role in Chinese emotional
life.
Tea is always offered
immediately to a guest in Chinese home. Serving a cup of tea is
more than a matter of mere politeness; it is a symbol of
togetherness, a sharing of something enjoyable and a way of
showing respect to visitors. To not take at least a sip might be
considered rude in some areas. In previous time, if the host held
his teacup and said "please have tea", the guest will
take his conge upon the suggestion to leave.
Tea Classification
Although there are
hundreds of varieties of Chinese tea, they can be mainly
classified into five categories, that is, green tea, black tea,
brick tea, scented tea, and Oolong tea.
With its natural
fragrance, green tea, as the oldest kind of tea, is widely
welcomed by different people. It is baked immediately after
picking. According to the different ways of processing, it can be
divided to many kinds. Among various green tea, Longjing (Dragon
Well) Tea around the West Lake in Hangzhou, HuangshanMaofeng Tea
from Mt. Huangshan, Yinzhen (Silver Needle) Tea from Mt. Junshan
and Yunwu (Cloud and Mist) Tea from Mt. Lushan are most famous.
Black tea is much more
favored by foreigners. Different from green tea, black tea is a
kind of fermented tea. After the fermentation, its color changes
from green to black. The most famous black teas in China are
" Qi Hong (originated in Anhui), "Dian
Hong"(originated in Yunnan), and "Ying Hong"
(originated in Guangdong).
Oolong tea, with an
excellent combination of the freshness of green tea and the
fragrance of black tea, become popular with more and more people.
It has a good function in helping body building and dieting.
Fujian, Guangdong and Taiwan are the major producing areas of this
kind of tea. Oolong tea grows on cliffs, the hard picking process
make it the most precious tea.
Scented tea, which is
very popular in Northern China, in fact is a mixture of green tea
with flower petals of rose, jasmine, orchid and plum through an
elaborate process. Among this type, jasmine tea is common.
Brick tea, usually
pressed into brick shape, is mainly produced in Hunan, Hubei,
Sichuan, Yunnan and Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Brick tea is
made from black tea or green tea and is pressed into blocks. This
kind of tea is popular with minority people in border regions. The
most famous one is "Pu'er Tea" made in Yunnan province.
There are other kinds
of tea. Among them white tea is special and is not very familiar
to most people. Just as its name suggests, this kind of tea is as
white as silver. It is mainly produced in Zhenhe and Fuding in
Fujian Province, but popular in Southeast Asia. Famous varieties
include "Silver Needle" and "White Peony".
Advantages of Tea-Drinking
Tea has
been one of the daily necessities in China since time immemorial.
Countless numbers of people like to have their aftermeal cup of
tea.
In summer
or warm climate, tea seems to dispel the heat and bring on instant
cool together with a feeling of relaxation. For this reason,
tea-houses abound in towns and market villages in South China and
provide elderly retirees with the locales to meet and chat over a
cup of tea.
Medically,
the tealeaf contains a number of chemicals, of which 20-30% is
tannic acid, known for its anti-inflammatory and germicidal
properties. It also contains an alkaloid (5%, mainly caffeine), a
stimulant for the nerve centre and the process of metabolism. Tea
with the aromatics in it may help resolve meat and fat and thus
promote digestion. It is, therefore, of special importance to
people who live mainly on meat, like many of the ethnic minorities
in China. A popular proverb among them says, "Rather go
without salt for three days than without tea for a single
day."
Tea is also
rich in various vitamins and, for smokers, it helps to discharge
nicotine out of the system. After wining, strong tea may prove to
be a sobering pick-me-up.
The above,
however, does not go to say that the stronger the tea, the more
advantages it will yield. Too much tannic acid will affect the
secretion of the gastric juice, irritate the membrane of the
stomach and cause indigestion or constipation. Strong tea taken
just before bedtime will give rise to occasional insomnia.
Constant drinking of over-strong tea may induce heart and
blood-pressure disorders in some people, reduce the milk of a
breast-feeding mother, and put a brown colour on the teeth of
young people. But it is not difficult to ward off these
undesirable effects: just don't make your tea too strong.
Tea Production
A new
tea-plant must grow for five years before its leaves can be picked
and, at 30 years of age, it will be too old to be productive. The
trunk of the old plant must then be cut off to force new stems to
grow out of the roots in the coming year. By repeated
rehabilitation in this way, a plant may serve for about l00 years.
For the
fertilization of tea gardens, soya-bean cakes or other varieties
of organic manure are generally used, and seldom chemical
fertilizers. When pests are discovered, the affected plants will
be removed to prevent their spread, and also to avoid the use of
pesticides.
The season
of tea-picking depends on local climate and varies from area to
area. On the shores of West Lake in Hangzhou, where the famous
green tea Longjing (Dragon Well) comes from, picking starts from
the end of March and lasts through October, altogether 20-30 times
from the same plants at intervals of seven to ten days. With a
longer interval, the quality of the tea will deteriorate.
A skilled
woman picker can only gather 600 grams (a little over a pound) of
green tea leaves in a day.
The new
leaves must be parched in tea cauldrons. This work, which used to
be done manually, has been largely mechanized. Top-grade Dragon
Well tea, however, still has to be stir-parched by hand, doing
only 250 grams every half hour. The tea-cauldrons are heated
electrically to a temperature of about 25oC or 74oF. It takes four
pounds of fresh leaves to produce one pound of parched tea.
The best
Dragon Well tea is gathered several days before Qingming (Pure
Brightness, 5th solar term) when new twigs have just begun to grow
and carry "one leaf and a bud." To make one kilogram
(2.2 lbs) of finished tea, 60, 000 tender leaves have to be
plucked. In the old days Dragon Well tea of this grade was meant
solely for the imperial household; it was, therefore, known as
"tribute tea".
For the
processes of grinding, parching, rolling, shaping and drying other
grades of tea various machines have been developed and built,
turning out about 100 kilograms of finished tea an hour and
relieving the workers from much of their drudgery.
Top Chinese Teas
Longjing (Dragon Well): Produced
at Longjing village near the West Lake, Hangzhou, Zhejiang.
Biluochun: Produced at Wu County, Jiangsu
Huangshanmaofeng: Produced at Mt. Huangshan in Anhui.
Junshan Silver Needle: Produced at Qingluo Island on
Dongting Lake.
Qimen Black Tea: Produced at Qimen County in Anhui.
Tieguanyin: Produced at Anxi County, Fujian
Xinyang Maojian: Produced at Xinyang, Henan.
Duyun Maojian: Produced at Duyun Mountain, Guizhou.
Wuyi Rock Tea: Produced at Wuyi Mountain, Fujian
China's Tea-Producing Areas
Tea is produced in vast areas of
China from Hainan lsland down in the extreme south to Shandong
Province in the north, from Tibet in the southwest to Taiwan
across the Straits, totalling more than 20 provinces. These may be
divided into four major areas:
1) The Jiangnan area: It lies south
of the middle and lower reaches of the Changjiang (Yangtze) River,
and is the most prolific of China's tea-growing areas. Most of its
output is the green variety; some black tea is also produced.
2) The Jiangbei area: This refers
to a large area north of the same river, where the average
temperature is 2-3 Centigrade degrees lower than in the Jiangnan
area. Green tea is the principal variety turned out there, but
Shaanxi and Gansu provinces, which are also parts of this area.
produce compressed tea for supply to the minority areas in the
Northwest.
3) The Southwest area: This
embraces Sichuan, Yunnan, Guizhou and Tibet, producing black,
green as well as compressed teas. Pu'er tea of Yunnan Province
enjoys a good sale in China and abroad.
4) The Lingnan area: This area,
consisting of the southern provinces of Guangdong, Guangxi, Fujian
and taiwan, produces Wulong tea, which is renowned both at home
and abroad.
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