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Table Manners
The main difference between Chinese and Western eating habits is
that unlike the West, where everyone has their own plate of food,
in China the dishes are placed on the table and everybody shares.
If you are treated by a Chinese host, be prepared for a ton of
food. Chinese are very proud of their culture of food and will do
their best to give you a taste of many different types of cuisine.
Among friends, they will just order enough for the people there.
If they are taking somebody out for dinner and the relationship is
polite to semi-polite, then they will usually order one more dish
than the number of guests (e.g. four people, five dishes). If it
is a business dinner or a very formal occasion, there is likely to
be a huge amount of food that will be impossible to finish.
A typical meal starts with some cold dishes, like
boiled peanuts and smashed cucumber with garlic. These are
followed by the main courses, hot meat and vegetable dishes.
Finally soup is brought out, which is followed by the starchy
"staple" food, which is usually rice or noodles or
sometimes dumplings. Many Chinese eat rice (or noodles or
whatever) last, but if you like to have your rice together with
other dishes, you should say so early on.
One thing to be aware of is that
when eating with a Chinese host, you may find that the person is
using their chopsticks to put food in your bowl or plate. This is
a sign of politeness. The appropriate thing to do would be to eat
the whatever-it-is and say how yummy it is. If you feel
uncomfortable with this, you can just say a polite thank you and
leave the food there, and maybe cover it up with a little rice
when they are not looking. There is a certain amount of leniency
involved when dealing with Westerners, so you won't be chastised.
Don'ts
Traditionally speaking, there are many taboos at Chinese tables,
but these days not many people pay attention to them. However,
there are a few things to keep in mind, especially if you are a
guest at a private home.
1. Don't stick your chopsticks
upright in the rice bowl. Instead, lay them on your dish. The
reason for this is that when somebody dies, the shrine to them
contains a bowl of sand or rice with two sticks of incense stuck
upright in it. So if you stick your chopsticks in the rice bowl,
it looks like this shrine and is equivalent to wishing death upon
person at the table!
2. Make sure the spout of the
teapot is not facing anyone. It is impolite to set the teapot down
where the spout is facing towards somebody. The spout should
always be directed to where nobody is sitting, usually just
outward from the table.
3. Don't tap on your bowl with your
chopsticks. Beggars tap on their bowls, so this is not polite.
Also, in a restaurant, if the food is coming too slow people will
tap their bowls. If you are in someone's home, it is like
insulting the cook.
Eat Local
You can get expensive, delicious
meals in any of the large hotels, but if you are looking for
atmosphere, you have to go to a local joint. Not only is it
cheaper, but you can get a good look at the locals and what normal
people are like. And what the food lacks in presentation is made
up for in the taste. Some restaurants have English menus, but
don't count on it. A good way to choose dishes is to look at what
others are eating and point at it for the waitress. The other
option is to play "Mystery Dinner", where players
randomly point at items in the menu and wait for the surprise
dishes to come. Whoever orders the braised dog heart with
scallions in shark vomit sauce wins!
Also, be sure to sample the local
brew, Yanjing Beer.
Drinking
Alcohol is a big part of eating in
Beijing. Especially when dining with Chinese hosts, you can expect
the beer to flow freely and many beis to be gan-ed. (Gan Bei
literally means "dry [the] glass") Besides beer, the
official Chinese alcoholic beverage is bai jiu, high-proof Chinese
liquor made from assorted grains. There are varying degrees of bai
jiu, and some are quite good. The Beijing favorite is called Er
Guo Tou, which is a whopping 56% alcohol. More expensive and less
formidable are Maotai and Wuliangye, which go far about 300-400
Yuan per bottle. In comparison, Er Guo Tou costs a modest 4 or 5
Yuan per ping (bottle). If you are not a drinker, or don't feel up
to the challenge, just say "wo bu hui he jiu" (I don't
drink). It is generally acceptable to use Coke or tea as an
alcohol substitute.
Chinese cooking history
China is a country where the
preparation and appreciation of food has been developed to the
highest level.
The art of Chinese cooking has been developed and refined over
many centuries. Emperor Fuxi taught people to fish, hunt, grow
crops and to cook twenty centuries before Christ. However, cooking
could not be considered an art until the Chou Dynasty (1122-249
B.C.).
The two dominant philosophies of
the Chinese culture are Confucianism and Taoism. Each influenced
the course of Chinese history and the development of the culinary
arts. Confucianism concerned itself with the art of cooking and
placed great emphasis on the enjoyment of life. To the Chinese,
food and friends are inseparable. A gathering without food is
considered incomplete and improper.
Confucius loved and respected the
art of cooking. He established culinary standards and proper table
etiquette. Most of these are still considered to be the standards
even today. The tradition of cutting foods into bite size pieces
during preparation is unique to the Chinese culture. The use of
knives at a Chinese dinner is considered "poor taste."
Confucius taught that good cooking
depends on the blending of various ingredients and condiments
rather than the taste of the individual elements. He believed that
in order to become a good cook one must first be a good
matchmaker. The flavors of the ingredients must be blended with
harmony. Without harmony there is no taste. He also stressed the
use of color and texture in preparing the dish. Most certainly
Confucianism helped elevate cooking from a menial task to the
status of an art, "the art of Chinese cooking."
Taoism was responsible for the
development of the hygienic aspects of food and cooking. The
principle objectives of this philosophy were people's wish for
longevity. In contrast to supporters of Confucianism who were
interested in the taste, texture and appearance, Taoists were
concerned with the life-giving attributes of various foods.
Over the centuries the Chinese have
explored the world of plants, roots, herbs, fungus and seeds to
find life-giving elements. They discovered that the nutritional
value of vegetables could be destroyed by improper cooking and
that many items had medicinal value. For example, ginger, a
favorite condiment, is also used to soothe an upset stomach and as
a cold remedy.
Unlike the majority of eastern
cuisines most Chinese dishes are low-calorie and low fat. Food is
cooked using poly-unsaturated oils; milk, cream, butter and cheese
are not a part of the daily diet. Animal fats are kept to a
minimum due to the small portions of meats used. Please note,
however, that some dishes served in Chinese restaurants may be
considerably higher in calories and fats than those in this
cookbook that you prepare at home.
With this basic understanding of
Chinese culinary history, you are ready to begin cooking in
Chinese style.
Beliefs and Etiquette
"A Chinese dinner host will not expect a visitor to know all
the traditions associated with a Chinese meal. But the visitor who
knows some of them will gain 'face' and give 'face' to his
host!"
Investigating those traditions is
part of the fun of a China visit, where English-speaking friends
or business associates will happily tell you the whys and
wherefores of seemingly arcane rituals. You may even hear
different versions of how a particular dining tradition
originated!
Foreign visitors will be forgiven
for not knowing dining etiquette, just as they will be
good-naturedly offered a knife and fork if their chopstick prowess
is not up to par. Just as Chinese food, however, seems to taste
better when it is eaten with chopsticks, so the whole meal will be
more enjoyable if one knows a little of the ancient traditions and
beliefs that place the meal in a 5,000-year-old culinary heritage.
Why is a fish never turned over?
Why do tea-drinkers surreptitiously tap tables? Why will there be
a place laid for a guest who will never come? Why is it not
improper to slurp you soup but improper to eat a fish head? Why
are Chinese dinner tables round and how will you know who is the
guest of honor? How and why will you say "Cheers!"?
Although Western customs have
influenced dining habits in China, the majority of old traditions
still live on. The guest of honor will usually be seated facing
the door of entry, directly opposite the host. The next most
honored guest will be seated to the left of the guest of honor. If
the host has any doubts about the correct order of precedence for
his guests, he will seat them on the basis of age.
The host sits near the door, as in
Western practice, so that he is nearest to the kitchen. If the
meal is held in the host's home, he can then bring each dish to
the table more quickly. He will himself serve his guests portions
of food, on the tacit understanding that they are far too polite
to help themselves.
But for some dishes, especially
fish; the host would never do so - for the good reason that the
dish would be inedible cool by the end of the service. Instead,
each guest is expected to help himself.
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